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Baby Gate

Finish Bandsaw Refurb

Finish Boat Seat Hatch - need hinges

Art Projector on the Cheap

Door Headboard

Photo Set

Sandbox Concept

* Sand trap sand from building/turf supply

* Periscope

* Ships Wheel

* Various Buttons, Switches, and LEDs

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Refurbishing a Delta 28-560 16” Bandsaw

I picked up an old 28-560 that needs some TLC for a good bargain on Craigslist. I’m getting rid of my small 9” bandsaw (selling to hopefully fund part of this restoration) and looking forward to a larger throat and cast iron table. This thing is a beast and weighs a ton and has the original stand with it.

To Do List:

  1. New tires (x2) and new drive belt/tire for third wheel ($40 on eBay for the set)
  2. Fabricate a bearing shaft (it is missing one bearing/shaft assembly)
  3. Replace bearings with new ceramic thrust bearings
  4. Clean cast iron table and apply T9
  5. Clean wheel surface and lubricate wheel bearings
  6. Clean rust off blade guard and paint
  7. Clean rust off of upper blade guide post and apply T9
  8. Clean body casting and front cover
  9. Clean and lubricate tension spring assembly
  10. Build mobile base with locking casters
  11. Replace mild steel hardware in stand with stainless and paint stand
  12. Add shelves to stand
  13. Add sweepers to wheels
  14. Build new angle iron fence track

There’s people in woodworking forums who knock any 3 wheel band saw, but the prospect of a 16” cutting throat while not relying on huge 16” wheels seems like a huge plus! I hope I can get this running like a top!

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Chuck Box - First Concept Model

I’m leaning towards a fold down and out work surface to make as much usable space as possible. To pack up the two outer leaves would fold in, then the main area would fold up and the two doors would fold in to meet each other. 

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I’ve been wanting to build a chuck box for a while and I’m going to start gathering my thoughts and notes to ponder before I start any designing and modeling. I hate digging in Rubbermaid boxes when car camping, but I like having a plethora of utensils and supplies when I’m not really weight or space constrained. 

Must have:

  • Space for stove to run with bottle attached - routed spots in stove surface to accept stove feet
  • Useful counter space even with stove set up
  • Storage for enamelware dining set (4 person)
  • LED lights for work area
  • Storage for stove and 2 propane cylinders
  • Utensil drawer for cheap plastic utensil organizer
  • Self standing on legs or use by setting on top of a picnic table
  • Towel drying rod/cut out
  • No top opening that would require moving the junk invariably set on top of the box to access contents
  • Storage for nested stainless mixing bowls
  • Storage for pots and pans
  • Light enough to carry and set up myself (maybe add wheels for getting to set up spot?)

Like to have:

  • Separate counter space for sink with spot to set water jug above it for displensing into said sink - Trade off in weight; if back isn’t a fold down counter, it could be a thinner plywood skin
  • Compact dish drying rack
  • Paper towel holder - usually takes up a lot of room
  • Dry good storage - plastic bins
  • Lantern Hook
  • Minimal weight (as realistic in the car camping scope of things)
  • Routed out area in work surface for matching cutting board

At this point in time I’m leaning towards a traditional patrol box design with dual fold down work surface, one side that can be for cooking with enough space for a plate next to the stove and the other side to be used for prep and clean up. I already have a kelty folding pack sink that I plan to use and want to make the top strong enough to support a full 5 gallon water container. If it is double sided, I will make all drawers/storage compartments accessible from both sides. 

I like designs I have seen where the box sits relatively low and the top is the stove/prep surface, but I think it would be more versatile for working in wind if the whole box can be a wind break and utilize a fold down work surface, plus I think it would be better if the things you need are in front of you instead of below you while cooking. 

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My wife and I have been playing Takenoko somewhat regularly and it’s been a lot of fun. Looking at the cool ideas for Catan play bases I’m tempted to put together a playing surface for Takenoko that lines up the tiles and makes it movable.

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Home Etched PCB - Wrap Up

For my first etching job I am extremely happy with the way my board came out. In the coming days I will put it together and you will see what this mystery board was designed for!

Here are some tips and comments on this experience:

Doing the toner transfer while the copper clad board is its largest size helps a great deal with positioning and keeping the pattern paper from moving. I was lucky to have a 10”x18” piece of copper clad laying around and it made the ironing so much easier.

If you have a choice of laser printers go with the one with the shortest printing path and fewest turns. Don’t waste money on expensive photo paper either; glossy magazine pages can work just fine and are in most cases free.

The sharpie method works really well too for this enchant solution. For really simple layouts this will probably be the way I go in the future.

Next time I think I will go with 3:2 hydrogen peroxide:muriatic acid and hopefully this will speed up the process, especially when it’s single sided and you are trying to completely eat off the back side. Someone suggested rubbing the board with the end if a paper towel while it is etching and I may try that too next time.

The longest operation by far though was getting off the toner after I was all done. Home grade rubbing alcohol did nothing and even with lab grade 100% isopropyl alcohol there was a lot of rubbing involved to get it clean. Next time I’ll try acetone, but I didn’t have any right now.

I got great information from Brad Luyster at http://www.meatandnetworking.com/projects/toner-transfer-and-muriatic-acid-etchant-making-pcbs-at-lvl1/ and highly recommend you check out his site for cool projects and info.

Photo Set

Home Etched PCB - Part 2

Once the board was cut to size, we are ready to etch. I used a 2:1 hydrogen peroxide:muriatic acid mixture for my etching bath. I used a plastic measuring cup and cheap throw away plastic storage containers to make up my etching and water baths. I also had baking soda on hand to neutralize any acid if anything had gone wrong. All the materials cost less than $15 and I’ll have enough acid to last for years.

Always add the acid slowly to the hydrogen peroxide and not the other way around! I’m not an expert and your results may vary, this is just my experience and not meant to be a comprehensive guide!

The etching took a really long time, about 15 minutes of agitating with a chopstick all said and done. Once all the copper is removed from the unmasked areas, then you put the board in your water bath to dilute the remaining chemicals on the board. I poured the baking soda into the acid bath a little at a time until there stopped being any reaction as I added it, and left it sitting overnight. In the morning I put the lid on and it’s ready to go to hazardous waste on Saturday.

I am super happy with the results and thrilled with the resolution I achieved. I do not have any spots that etched where I didn’t want to, and the spots where I drew my moniker in sharpie look great.

Photo Set

Home Etched PCB - Part 1

This is my first try at etching a PCB at home. I used the toner transfer method and am very happy with the results I got. Here is a breakdown and my experience:

I printed my artwork on to a glossy page from a free trade magazine that was laying around the office. I used a HP Color LaserJet CP3505 and used the front bypass tray. My first try was through a LaserJet 9050 in the bypass tray, but the paper path is still very long through the machine and it wouldn’t feed the slick page without jamming.

I used Eagle for the design and made the bottom copper my only trace layer so there was no need to mirror the image; It’s already mirrored when you print because it’s a top down view through the layers like an X-ray.

I used an old household iron (as to not scratch up my good iron with its stainless steel plate) and burned the page onto the copper clad for maybe 20 seconds all told, moving the iron constantly over the pattern area. Then I just soaked it for a few minutes and rubbed off the paper. You can see that there is still paper residue where the toner is, but that is ok. As long as all of the paper is gone from where you are going to etch, you’re good.

Lastly I sheared it to size and it is ready for an acid swim.

Photo Set

The completed step stool - ready for some stain and polyurethane.